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The Dawn Wall · 2017 — 第 12 / 24 章 · 3'30" · B2

Tommy Tests His New Partner, Explained：go on faith

Tommy has a new partner, so he starts with a test: an 80-pound haul bag that has to be carried up and then hauled. "A soul crushing load," someone calls it. Kevin learns every basic skill from scratch on the wall, and admits, "It's scary to be a total beginner again," before trusting Tommy's vision of the route.

あらすじ

Tommy takes on a new partner, Kevin, and begins by testing him with an 80-pound haul bag and a night on top of El Cap. Over the following days Kevin learns the basics from scratch — jumaring, setting up a portaledge, even how to go to the bathroom on the wall. He says he does not know what they are up against, but goes on faith that this is Tommy's world.

StorytellingExplainingConfessingFriendsB2mediumamerican
IMDb ↗

注目の表現

dynofigure outgo on faithset up

00:00 / 03:30
Space 再生 · ← → セリフ移動 · R リピート
いま
セリフをタップするとそこから再生

このシーンの表現

go on faith

act on trust alone

Kevin cannot judge the route, so he acts on trust in Tommy alone.

With no data, the team went on faith and shipped the design.

このシーンの他の表現

  • dyno

    a leaping climbing move

  • figure out

    work out, understand

  • set up

    assemble and fix in place

  • take a dump

    to go poop

  • harness

    draw on and use

このシーンのメモ一覧

55 行のセリフに 24 件のメモ

表現 · A2the first thing someone does is ...

the very first step

First thing I had to do was test him.
表現 · B2a haul bag

a heavy gear bag

I gave him like an 80 pound haul bag.
表現 · C1soul-crushing something

utterly draining

A soul crushing load.
スラング · C1soul crushing

utterly draining — Casual exaggeration for a crushing burden.

A soul crushing load.
表現 · A2hike to a place

walk to

We hiked to the top of El Cap.
発音in the morning

In the tends to blur into inna in fast speech.

It's 3:15 in the morning.
表現 · A1get up at a time

rise from bed

You never get up at 3:00 in the morning to go bouldering.
表現 · B1step off something

walk off

It's like stepping off the edge of the Earth.
表現 · C1feet of exposure

vertical drop

You instantly have 3,000 feet of exposure under your butt.
表現 · B1be a total beginner

complete novice

It's scary to be a total beginner again.
発音to be a

Link to, be and a into one smooth run.

It's scary to be a total beginner again.
表現 · B1figure out how to do something

work out, understand

Learning from scratch, Kevin works out how to climb a fixed rope on the way down.

Trying to figure out how to jumar a fixed line.
スラング · C1jumar

ascend a rope with a device — Climbing jargon for moving up a fixed rope.

Trying to figure out how to jumar a fixed line.
表現 · A2set something up

assemble and fix in place

High on the wall Kevin has to assemble a hanging tent from scratch before he can sleep.

How to set up a portaledge.
表現 · B2take a dump

to go poop

In a deadpan list of new skills, Kevin ends with how to relieve himself on a vertical wall.

How to take a dump on the side of the Wall.
表現 · B1be about to do something

on the point of

no idea that it's about to consume six years of my life.
文法 · B2the first time since getting divorced that

it-cleft: The cleft front-loads first time to stress how long Tommy went without a partner.

it was the first time since getting divorced that Tommy had a partner.
表現 · B2be up against something

facing a challenge

I didn't know what we were up against, but I was going on faith that this is Tommy's world.
文法 · B2what we were up against

noun clause: The what-clause is the object of know, naming the unknown threat.

I didn't know what we were up against, but I was going on faith that this is Tommy's world.
表現 · B1early on

at an early stage

The basic strategy early on was not to climb the route from the bottom.
表現 · A2focus on something

concentrate on

It was to identify the hardest sections and focus on those first.
表現 · B1the only way is to do something

the sole option

The only way was to just leap.
スラング · C1Dyno

a dynamic jump — Climbing jargon for a leaping move to a hold.

The Dyno.
文法 · B1until I saw Kevin try it

time clause: The until-clause marks the moment doubt turns into belief.

I didn't really believe it would be possible until I saw Kevin try it.

「Tommy Tests His New Partner」を読み解く

What's really going on

The chapter is about trust as a working method. Tommy's first instinct with a new partner is not encouragement but a test, and the film makes the test literal: give the man the heaviest bag and see what he does. Kevin, for his part, is honest about how much he does not know. "It's scary to be a total beginner again," he says, which is unusual in a sport that rewards confidence, and the line explains why the partnership works. He is not pretending to be Tommy's equal; he is accepting the deal on its terms. "I didn't know what we were up against, but I was going on faith that this is Tommy's world." What he gets in return is a vision, and the film shows the two halves of a good team: one who can see the line, and one who will commit to it before he can see it himself.

Theme

TrustKevin commits to an unknown route on faith in Tommy's vision, which is what makes the partnership work.
FriendshipA new climber and a veteran build a partnership through a blunt test, shared suffering and mutual reliance.

このチャプターで学べること

  • A beginner's fear is admitted, not hidden.
  • Trust stands in for knowledge on an unknown route.
  • Years on the wall quietly wear both climbers down.
  • One blank section reduces the problem to a single leap.

発音のポイント

  • in the morning — In the tends to blur into inna in fast speech.
  • to be a — Link to, be and a into one smooth run.
It's like stepping off the edge of the Earth.

Kevin's description of rappelling: leaning back into the void feels less like technique than stepping off the world itself.

It's scary to be a total beginner again.

An expert admitting he is back at zero, which makes his trust in Tommy a deliberate choice rather than simple confidence.

it was the first time since getting divorced that Tommy had a partner.

The partnership framed as personal recovery: after the divorce, taking on Kevin means having someone again.

I didn't know what we were up against, but I was going on faith that this is Tommy's world.

Kevin's method in one line: ignorance about the route, complete trust in the person who knows it.

The only way was to just leap.

The smooth section allows no technique, only a jump, which is where the route's famous move comes from.

I didn't really believe it would be possible until I saw Kevin try it.

Tommy's honesty that the move seemed impossible until his partner tried it, so the two keep proving the route to each other.

このシーンについての質問

Why does Tommy test Kevin first?

Because he needs to know whether a new partner can handle the work. He gives Kevin an 80-pound haul bag to carry and hike up, and uses that as his first measure of the man.

What does Kevin have to learn?

Almost everything about big-wall climbing: how to jumar a fixed line, set up a portaledge, and even how to go to the bathroom on the side of the wall.

What is the Dyno?

It is the route's signature move: an 8.5-foot blank section of rock with nothing to grip, crossed with a single leap. Dyno is the name for that kind of dynamic jump.

Why does Kevin trust Tommy so completely?

Because Tommy has a clear vision of what the route can be, and Kevin decides to go on faith rather than wait to understand it himself.

ドーンウォール · 全 24 章

すべて見る →
次のチャプター · 第 13 章take a tollYears of Grinding on the Wall
第 1 章larger than lifeTommy's Father Toughens Him Up第 2 章head over heelsTommy Caldwell Wins Snowbird第 3 章sitting ducksClimbers Taken Hostage in Kyrgyzstan第 4 章take matters into their own handsTommy Pushes a Captor Off the Cliff第 5 章on the verge ofTommy Caldwell Attempts the Dawn Wall第 6 章get back on that horseLife on the Dawn Wall第 7 章fire someone upTommy Caldwell Cuts Off His Finger第 8 章grow apartTommy Becomes Mr. El Cap第 9 章throw yourself intoTommy Climbs Through His Divorce第 10 章pull for someoneDay Three on the Dawn Wall第 11 章a far cry fromIce Missiles Hit the Dawn Wall再生中 · 第 12 章go on faithTommy Tests His New Partner第 13 章take a tollYears of Grinding on the Wall第 14 章beat your head against a wallTommy Chooses the Wall Over Love第 15 章flip the switchTommy Attempts the Great Traverse第 16 章come togetherTommy Sends Pitch 15第 17 章momentumThe World Watches Tommy Climb第 18 章wears you downTommy Climbs in a Circle第 19 章a new set of eyesTommy Solves the Ridiculous Loop第 20 章throw in the towelKevin Falls Short on Pitch 15第 21 章envisionTommy Reaches Wino Tower第 22 章hold someone backTommy Waits for Kevin第 23 章the moment of truthBecca and Fitz Arrive at El Cap第 24 章no way in hellKevin Catches Tommy on the Dawn Wall
第 12 / 24 章 · 残り約 40 分